Western Atlantic, Algarve
Welcome to WesternAtlanticUncovered.com! Your tourist guide to Western Atlantic Algarve, southern Portugal! For tourist information about the Western Atlantic, its beaches, restaurants, bars, shops, things to do and in fact, all things Western Atlantic Algarve!
The western Atlantic coast covers an area that runs from Sagres in the south of the Algarve to Odeceixe in the north, the last town before the Alentejo. It is part of the protected 'Parque Natural da Costa Vicentina'.The coastline is much more dramatic and rugged than the southern coast and more exposed to the Atlantic weather - the reason that it is such a popular area for the surfing fraternity.
It is an area virtually untouched by tourism, with small hamlets and villages scattered here and there and many of the beaches are just that...beaches! No resort! This is what makes the region so special and enjoyed by those lucky enough to visit.
The western coast falls under two municipalities (councils) - Vila do Bispo in the south and Aljezur to the north, with Sagres being the main town at the southernmost point and Aljezur town serving the northern end. There is only one route along this coast - the EN268 road goes from Sagres to Aljezur and then the EN120 to Odeceixe and beyond. To find the different beaches you need to watch for the signs. There are lots of seldom visited beaches (probably because they are quite inaccessible and not signposted!) along the way.
At the northern most point is the pretty town of Odeceixe where the Seixe river winds it way through lush green pastures until it reaches the coast a short distance away at Praia de Odeceixe. The main part of the town is a network of cobbled streets in the bottom of the valley but there is a road leading up the hillside, past a church, to a windmill at the top (still operational) from where you can see the town layed out beneath you and the river winding through the fields to the sea beyond. It really is a very picturesque and peaceful town and although the centre looks as if it is a pedestrian area, as the streets are fully cobbled, it isn't! The 'road' winds past the little clusters of tables and chairs from the cafes, which are tucked around nearly every corner, and take you through to the road for the beach which is a couple of kilometres away at the mouth of the river.
Monte Clérigo (just to the west of Aljezur) is, at the moment, a small residential area on the hill above the beach...delightful, quiet and, probably wanting to stay that way! As you drive towards the beach, Praia de Clérigo, the views of the cliffs and the waves rolling in are really amazing - especially in springtime when the cliff tops are covered with flowers and foliage in all shades of green. There is a scattering of fishermen's cottages around the beach and a very popular beach bar/restaurant overlooking it.
Arrifana is a little different...it is a small fishing port and has a pretty town area on top of the cliffs with a handful of cafés and shops and the remains of a 17th century fort (built to protect the fishermen). It is also gradually expanding with new building to the south and east. This doesn't make it any the less attractive, but obviously change is coming.
Vale de Telha, a little inland from Arrifana, is expanding steadily...it has several real estate agents to prove it's increase in size! The building seems to be gentle and in character with the area...small estates, single houses, and it is easy to see why people want to live here.
It is worth mentioning that as the whole of this coast is in a protected area, building regulations are, quite rightly, strict and it is really important (if you were thinking of buying property here) to make sure that all the appropriate licences and permissions have been obtained and adhered to. (From time to time there are 'issues' in the local papers regarding building in the Costa Vicentina park.
Carrapateira is a small town on the hillside just behind the sand dunes of Praia da Bordeira (often mistakenly called Praia da Carrapateira) about 14km north of Vila do Bispo and just south of the village of Bordeira. It has been undergoing major improvements to its road systems and layout, presumably to cater for it's increasing popularity with visitors and potential residents.
There are a few bars and restaurants in Carrapateira and shops for everyday needs, including a 'padaria' (bakers) and a market for fresh fruit and veg. There are the remains of another 17th century fort which protected the coastline from the pirates.
To really appreciate the ruggedness of the coastline there is a scenic, if a little rough drive along the clifftops to Praia do Amado from Bordeira beach - take the road to the left of the beach and follow it up the hill and you can drive along the cliff tops all the way to Amado beach. Although it is quite a rough road in places, you don't need a 4x4 to tackle it! It is worth it for the view and when you reach Amado there is another, better road that leads you back to the main road just south of Carrapateira.
Praia do Amado is just that...a gorgeous beach! Oh, and there are a couple of snack bars! The large sandy bay with red and gold cliffs at either end and green hills as a backdrop ...wonderful! Judging by the number of surfers that gather here - the surf's not bad either!